23rd Oct, 2012
We had the most amazing time today. I never imagined I will
ever say that after visiting the two Imambaras and the Residency. I realised
that a person’s ability to appreciate certain things changes, so even though I
have visited these places umpteen number of times when I was in Lucknow some 15
years ago, I am certain I was never as awe struck by the grandeur and beauty of
these structures like I was today. In fact I don’t remember being as pleased
seeing any place, anywhere. Maybe hearing polite and chaste Urdu after such a
long time also had something to do with it.
Rumi Darwaza or the Turkish Gate
Our first stop was as usual the Bara Imambara after passing
through the Rumi Darwaza. Built in 1784 by Nawab Asaf-ud-dowlah, the Rumi
Darwaza is 59 feet tall. It was designed on the Sublime Porte (Bab-i-Humayun)
in Istanbul. The designer Kifayatullah was selected through a competition. His
grave is also in the Bara Imambara.
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| Rumi Darwaza |
The Bara Imambara or Asafi Imambara
The Bara Imambara, the most famous building in Lucknow, was
built by Nawab Asaf-ud-dowlah in 1784, to provide employment to his famine
struck subjects giving rise to the adage in urdu “jise na de moula, use de
Asaf-ud-dowla”. The structure took a decade to finish because during the day
people would build while at night the noblemen would be called to bring down
the same.
The central chamber, containing
the tomb of Asaf-ud-dowlah is 50mts by 16mts by 15mts and has one of the
largest unsupported arches in the world. There are eight surrounding chambers
with labyrinthine three dimensional passages connecting 489 identical doorways
called “bhool bhulaiya”. It is rumoured that there were other secret passages
(now blocked) leading to Faizabad, Allahabad and Delhi.
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| The Machhli Darwaza - a facade across the Bara Imambara |
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| Asafi or Bara Imambara |
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| The 50 mt long roof unsupported by any beam. A match struck in one corner of the gallery can be heard across the hall |
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| These doorways (one open two blocked) 489 in number form the famed maze. They also help air cool the huge building by guiding the passage of air |
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| The adjoining chamber roof shaped like a melon - "kharbooza" |
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| The Chinese design roof of the other chamber |
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| An ornate roof |
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| An intricately designed arched entrance |
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| The 'Bouli', a step well |
A step well called “bowli” with
natural running water is also in the complex.
The imposing Asfi Masjid is also in
the same complex.
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| Asafi Masjid |
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| Asafi Masjid side view |
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| The Tille wali Masjid seen from the Imambara |
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| Rajeev recording his impressions |
We decided to walk to the Chhota
Imambara and see other things places up close.
Clock Tower
This landmark clock tower was almost scrapped by the U.P. administration, because the clock had stopped working and the company having provided it said they can no more supply its parts. A local watchmaker finally fixed it after another stole all its original parts.
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| Clock Tower or Hussainabad ka Ghantaghar |
Picture Gallery
The Picture Gallery is housed in
a building also built by Muhammad Ali Shah. It has life size paintings of all
the Nawabs of Avadh. We got a picture of the most famous one before the
caretaker told us taking pictures was not permitted. The view from the open verandahs of the
gallery is particularly nice. I saw a white throated kingfisher catch a fish in the little lake in front and almost got a perfect picture of the bird with its prey but at the last moment it turned its back on me!
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| Picture Gallery |
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| The famous portrait of Wajid Ali Shah |
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| White throated kingfisher with a fish in its beak |
Chhota Imambara or Hussainabad Imambara
I could not believe my eyes when I saw this grand structure
bathed in the morning light. If anything it is even more impressive than the
Bara Imambara. Built in 1838 by the third Nawab of Avadh, Muhammad Ali Shah, I
think it has always wrongly been under the shadow of the Bara Imambara because
of the nomenclature – Chhota meaning small and Bara meaning big. It is of
course a mausoleum of Muhammad Ali Shah and houses his tomb and those of his
family. A large number of chandeliers, brought specially from Belgium and other
countries are stacked here, perhaps because of that it is also called the
“Palace of Lights”.
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| Entrance to the Chhota Imambara |
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| What a gem! The Hussainabad Imambara - main building. Calligraphic script in white on a black background, on the walls, makes a striking contrast. |
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| Reflection in the water |
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| The two structures on either side-as beautiful |
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| Beautifil lightning conductor |
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| The auspicious fish at the gate |
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| The collection of chandelliers |
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| Prophet's foot print |
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An Ivory replica of the Taj Mahal made by a Lucknow craftsman |
The walls are decorated with calligraphic script in Arabic. The
golden ribbed domes of the Imambara make a picturesque sight even from far.
Satkhanda
The semi –finished tower called the Satkhanda meaning seven
storeys is very near the Imambara. Ali Shah intended to make a tower for lunar observation, as imposing as the Qutub Minar or the Leaning
Tower of Pisa but before it could be finished he died. The Satkhanda has only
four storeys.
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| The unfinished Satkhanda |
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| Waiting for Id or maybe not! |
After this we went to the Residency but that deserves a separate post.
Vineeta Jain has commented on 24.10.12:
ReplyDelete"Wow that ws amazing! It was once again a walk down memory lane...thx."
You are welcome, vineeta. thx for the constant encouragement.
ReplyDeleteSaroj Nanda has commented as under on 24.10.12:
ReplyDelete"Made me nostalgic and took me down the memory lanes. Lucknow is an amazing city."
Thank you. We are glad you liked this post.
ReplyDeleteRamchandra Lalingkar has commented on 26.10.12:
ReplyDelete"Interesting description and photographs of Lucknow city !!"
Thank you so much.
ReplyDeleteHi Rajeev,
ReplyDeleteI completely echo your thoughts on this post.. I visited the Bara Imambara last week after several years and definitely was impressed. We go around the world looking for breaktaking architecture when we miss the beauty of ones right across the door. The baoli was what impressed me most this time.. It seems to have been restored with care.. In my previous visit, it was quite damp, with algae all over, no safety railings.. and slippery... we did not venture far into the baoli save throwing a coin into the famed well. This time round, though the baoli was all dry :-( we went down two levels admiring the structure and admiring the stories relayed on by the guide.. (some definitely concoted over time).
I maybe expecting more.. but going by the details typically on your posts.. I was left craving for more details/stories around the imambara...
Rahul, I have a whole lot of research and materials on the Nawabs of Oudh and their buildings from when I was a University student, including on several buildings which are now submerged in the Gomti river which has changed its course several times, as well as, buildings which were destroyed by the British during the so-called "Campaign of Oudh" after the First War of Indian Independence in 1857. Lucknow has a fascinating history. This is my wife's post & she is a very "tough editor" (:-).
DeleteHi Rahul, Notwithstanding what Rajeev says about me, I will surely keep your feedback in mind next time I put up a post. Normally I just chronicle what I see and feel so I can relive the trip at a later date. But readers look for info too. :-) Thanx. Sumita.
DeleteHi Sumita/Rajeev, thanks for the response to my feedback. Level of info sought on a post by a reader may quite vary depending on the interest and current knowledge levels of the reader :-).. Unfortunately our impressions of the Nawabs of Oudh/Lucknow are based on films depicting them such as as Shatranj ke Khiladee.. or Umrao Jaan.. I am sure there is much more to their history..
ReplyDeleteI particularly enjoyed reading the posts on Ghana (slave castle, church) though I was still left wondering why such a puny and not so imposing church held much significance.
Do visit my photoblog http://indianimagery.blogspot.com where I have chronicled some of my travel in the past 10 years.. few words though.. and more images :-)
ReplyDeleteSure, Rahul. Have visited already. Can see that a lot of hard work and lovely photos have gone into your tremendous work . Took me down memory lane in many ways - Rajeev
DeleteEnglish Residency is viewed as a National Monument and is one of the significant destinations of the Revolt in Lucknow.
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